Meet Virbuna

FKA Green Sparkling Coffee

The Latin for 'green', viridis (ver-ih-dis) & Amharic for 'coffee', buna (boo-nuh) are combined to encapsulate the process & story we hope to share. Amharic, the official language of Ethiopia, is included to note one of coffee's oldest points of origin; Latin was used because, well, it’s classic.

Early on in this project people have asked what this coffee drink is called. Virbuna does not fit neatly into any other category, so defining this new process for coffee is understandable.

Nothing has changed from the original Green Sparkling Coffee aside from the name, it’s still the same wonderful single-origin fermented raw coffee drink we’ve been brewing all along.

Why and How, Pt.3: The Idea

In the final part of this three part series we touch on where the idea of brewing and culturing green coffee came from.  Exploring sustainable ways of using and processing coffee as a raw plant product was a part of this concept.

Most of my time in coffee was spent working at restaurants and cafes with strong food and beverage programs.  Seeing the ways various raw food products can be transformed pushed this idea of trying other processes for coffee other than roasting.

Initially, the green coffee was boiled in water to make what is known as 'green coffee extract' (GCE) without a dehydrating step.  The liquid extract tends to be quite bitter and not great tasting by itself, however, there is a lot of complexity to it.  Drawing from time spent working restaurant bars, I was curious if this green coffee liquid would open up with a basic cocktail approach by adding something acidic and sweet. The resulting profile reminded me of fermented beverages I've enjoyed in the past, mostly natural wines.  The tea-like qualities of the GCE base made me think of kombuchas which are fermented sweet tea; I figured I could forgo the mixology by culturing and it worked.

Steps in this process:

Starting with boiling water ,the green coffee is introduced.  The boiled water is important for eliminating any bad bacteria in the coffee and water and other surfaces.  This also acts as an extraction point of the green coffee. 

In other fermentations like wine and beer, both the grapes and grains used have sugar naturally in them.  Green coffee does not have sugar naturally in it, so to feed the culture, a bare minimum is added which the culture in turn mostly breaks down.

Next, the green coffee starter and culture are introduced to the green coffee base, and then we wait.

The yeast and bacteria begin to feed on the green coffee and sugar creating byproducts of acetic acid, CO2 and alcohol (.5 ABV or less).

Once the fermentation is complete, the culture is separated from the green coffee and yeast is strained out to halt any further fermentation.  The finished drink is chilled, poured and enjoyed.

Fermentation is an old food processing technique which we are excited to explore in this way in the world of coffee.

Jeremiah&Co

Why and How, Pt. 2: Sustainable Economics

The supply chain for roasted coffee is long.

Coffee has sensitive cultivation needs; in most of the countries coffee is grown a fair amount of work is still done by hand. When coffee is harvested, much of it ends up on the C-market (the ‘C’ stands for ‘coffee’) which is the global commodities exchange of coffee based on supply and demand. The C-market price per pound is currently well below the cost to produce a pound of coffee, meaning that many farms are spending more to produce than they make back.  

This price per pound is tied almost exclusively to a single, very sensitive process of roasting coffee.  For a specialty roaster, the clock is always ticking on your coffee to showcase the quality and character you search high and low for.  There is a noticeable difference in roasted coffee that has been cared for along the supply chain than with coffees that have not. However, the journey to arrive at the kind of coffee you expect in Specialty is extensive and the folks who consistently lose out on the profits, again, are often the farmers.

When fermenting raw green single-origin coffee I am not concerned by the things I am usually concerned with in roasting.  The details of varietal, washed or natural, etc.. are typically burdens on the farmer translated into added expenses.  In fermentation, I am not concerned if it is Arabica, Liberica, or if the water activity is .40 versus .70, because fermentation is far more stable than roasting for flavor in this case.  When coffee is roasted, compounds are altered and exposed, many of which are volatile. Once the roasted coffee has degassed (about 2 weeks) those volatile, beautiful aromatics which contribute to flavor are lost.  When fermenting, there are no transient gasses or volatile compounds which dissipate and take away from flavor. 

Doing away with concerns of quality linked to roasting, we are free to consistently buy directly from a farmer even if they produce a coffee that doesn’t ‘roast well’.  This allows a greater potential for the farmer to act as their own representative and take a larger share of the profit. In thinking about coffee differently it may afford us an opportunity to provide a more stable, cost-effective buying relationship for the people producing our coffee.  There are numerous forces at play and certainly a need to come up with more solutions, but in the current market of low global prices for coffee, fermentation in this way is a useful tool responsible buyers can begin implementing today. 

Why and How, Pt.1: Our Environment

As the only company, we are aware of, that makes single origin coffee in this fermented way, the question of why and how this started is a great question.  It is also one that is difficult to whittle down to one concise answer. In this 3 part series the hope is to answer some of these questions.

Having a positive impact on the environment is one reason fermenting green coffee began.

In short, fermentation, one of the oldest forms of food preservation, allows us to make the most of our food resources.  When coffee is roasted we lose about 15% of it by weight; granted that’s mostly water, though water, we would say, is better spent not being wasted. 

To cleanse the green coffee of any harmful bacteria, it’s true, the green beans and water need to be heated.  However, the same step is required in smaller quantities more often with roasted coffee when you brew a pour-over for example.  A single-use coffee filter? Not needed here. Grinding? Nope, also not needed to ferment. We are able to save energy and resources with a single extraction and process rolled up into one.  Additionally, electricity is used to brew green coffee compared to most roasting machines which are gas fueled. There are plenty of electric roasters out there, but gas heated ones are generally preferred.  There’s a good chance the last cup of roasted coffee you enjoyed was produced on a gas powered machine. Avoiding the use of fossil fuels in this instance has a direct effect of less carbon emissions. 

As far as energy goes, bacteria and yeast are an unseen natural resource all around us.  In fermentations we are able to harness the sustainable energy of these living microscopic beings without pollution.  This process has been described as very slow cooking, except instead of using heat we use microorganisms. 

On the side of agriculture, this processing technique also has sustainability-minded benefits.  The Arabica species of coffee is widely cultivated because it has pleasing flavors to humans when roasted compared to  other species, however, Arabica is more challenging to produce. When non-arabica is fermented, their flavors, not suited for roasting, have potential to make the finished product more unique.  As our climate changes, being able to grow more disease and pest resistant coffee at lower altitudes while commanding higher prices for the farmer is a huge asset.

Another detail to roasting versus fermentation is loss of quality from aging green.  Coffee has a lifespan for roasting even before it enters the roaster. Some experienced Specialty Coffee professionals won’t roast green that is older than one year because their pallets taste unpleasant flavors.  With every brew, we are learning as much as possible about flavor associations in the coffee. The theory is that you will be able to distinguish age even in fermentation, however, with the hope that age can become an asset or at the very least, a non-factor.  In this respect, fermenting affords a practical solution to eliminating waste by using aged green coffee without sacrificing quality in an end product.

Lastly, if you poured a glass of Olas green from a keg there would be no extra wasted packaging or process needed, just a reusable keg.  In bottling, we are dedicated to using biodegradable packaging. The safety seal and label used on the glass bottles are both biodegradable from companies based in New Jersey and California respectively.  It would have been purchased from a place closer than California to reduce carbon emissions in shipping but there wasn’t one locally who prints biodegradable labels. If you know of any in the NYC area, please feel free to reach out.

The aim of reducing waste and making the most of our resources to process coffee was a big factor in choosing fermentation.  Being able to buy coffee (which, to some, would have been otherwise deemed unusable) at Specialty prices is also an important feature.  It so happens the results are pretty delicious too :)

Original Coffee

 The original tasting experience of coffee as a fresh fruited berry and a grassy green seed is what we are revisiting in a fermentation process. 

Our story begins as a familiar one..

Coffee plants produce a fruit and inside are their seeds, which we call beans.  Humans a long time ago noticed when they ate this fruit they felt a kind of energy.

Soon after, they discovered the energizing effect another way: roasting, grinding and brewing the fruit’s seed. 

Unless you happen to be near a ready-to-harvest coffee plant, it’s unlikely you’ve consumed coffee in a fresh way.  By brewing the green un roasted coffee and fermenting it, we get much closer to this original field-fresh experience that humans enjoyed long ago.  And of course, there is still that same energizing kick.

This process of culturing single origin green coffee is one I have not seen in my +11 years of working in the coffee industry; it is exciting to be a part of this and share it with others.

Cheers,

-Jeremiah

Founder & Operator